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Kering moves Gucci's beauty licence from Coty to L'Oréal a year early

Kering said Gucci and L'Oréal have signed a 50-year exclusive beauty licence starting mid-2027, ending Gucci's existing licence with Coty a year ahead of its scheduled 2028 expiry, with Coty receiving about $400m for the early handover and L'Oréal covering roughly 70% of the transition cost.

A stylised still-life illustration of luxury perfume bottles and cosmetics on a polished plinth, with a single gold accent.
Illustration by floortok.com

Kering said Gucci and L'Oréal have entered a 50-year exclusive beauty licence agreement, effective mid-2027, a year ahead of schedule. The deal ends Gucci's existing beauty licence with Coty, which had been due to run until 30 June 2028, one year early.

According to Kering, Coty will receive approximately $400 million for the early redemption of its licence, made up of $250 million paid in 2026 and up to $150 million in 2027, plus the transfer of selected inventories. L'Oréal will cover roughly 70% of that redemption cost, the company said. Kering also released a comment from L'Oréal chief executive Luca de Meo, who said: "Today's agreement creates value for Gucci, L'Oréal and Coty alike."

Paying to end a licence a year early, rather than simply waiting it out, is Kering buying back control of Gucci's brand positioning sooner. Beauty is usually the first category a luxury house licenses out, and among the hardest to keep on-brand at scale, so handing Gucci's fragrance and cosmetics to L'Oréal ahead of schedule signals Kering wants that alignment now, not after Coty's contract naturally lapses — a sign of how central rebuilding Gucci is to Kering's own turnaround.